Although translucent, reeling, filling, micro-painting and other enamel production technologies have their own corresponding standard processes, if they are practiced lively, each brand or different enamel production The masters have their own ‘mysteries’, and they are not passed on. This is why we can find enamel watches made by the same process on the market. There are always subtle differences between different brands that can only be understood. .

Athenian ‘Saddam Attack’ watch made of filigree enamel.
Filament enamel
Chinese ‘掐 丝’ means ‘separation’ in French, that is, the use of curved gold lines to separate color blocks of various colors and merge the color blocks into a design pattern. Take the filigree enamel process of the Athens watch as an example, each of its delicate filigree enamel dials has been processed through 54 processes, including 12 firings and lengthy man-hours.

Cartier Rotonde de Cartier watch made of translucent enamel.
[Concise firing process]
Design the outline of the pattern on the dial or paper, and manually bend the gold wire with a width of only 0.07 mm into the design pattern to outline the outline and divide the area; then choose a color for each area to shape the desired effect; then use plant glue Fix the gold wire on the surface, then bake it in an enamel oven at 700-800 degrees Celsius, and the glue will solidify. After the gold wire is fixed, only 1 mm is exposed on the surface. Next, the goose feather tube is dipped in enamel pigment to paint the surface. The pigment must be colored slowly to form a suitable thickness to achieve the desired hue; each silk enamel The dial needs to be coated with 5 layers of enamel pigment, which means that after the color block is colored, it needs to be baked 5 times before it can be polished; the final process is to drill holes in the brand logo and time mark on the dial.

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Extraordinary Butterflies watch with enamel technology.
Translucent enamel
The translucent hollow enamel technique, as an interpretation of the silk enamel, is a masterpiece of art drawn on a translucent bottom plate. It was popular in the French royal family in the 14th century and was highly sought after. During the Art Nouveau period, a large number of jewellery decorated with metal-free bottom enamel appeared. This process was then called ‘translucent hollow enamel’. Such as this year’s S.I.H.H. Upper Cartier uses a Rotonde de Cartier translucent enamel watch to reflect the light and dark effects through gradient colors, so that the colors of the sky and clouds in the pattern appear clear and bright at any time and place, shining with stars dotted with silver foil. Then observe the back of the white polar bear, and the ice floes on the head and feet in turn. The arrangement of gradient colors gives the pattern a sense of layering, creating a unique light and shadow effect.

Filament is the use of curved gold wires to separate color blocks of various colors
[Concise firing process]
First carved out the bear-shaped pattern on the dial, smashed the enamel blocks purely to increase the density; the translucent hollow enamel dial after filling and firing the enamel, because it does not need the bottom embryo like other enamel crafts, Therefore, the enamel discs are transparent and bright. Finally, the enamel master will add silver foil to the translucent enamel dial to create the starry effect of the Arctic night sky.

Micropainted enamel is the most difficult enamel technique
Filled enamel
The enamel filling process with exquisite carving skills and harmonious and pleasing color combinations always brings us new surprises. It is made by engraving a metal embryo into a predetermined pattern, and then filling the cavity with enamel and then firing it. Unlike the extremely delicate and exquisite style expressed by the silk enamel process, the infill enamel can express the coordination of large colors and large composition, and its style is more atmospheric.
[Concise firing process]
Filled enamel is often applied in completely different colors in different segments, so during the firing process, it is necessary to process the enamel block with a high melting point, and then fill in the enamel block with a lower melting point in sequence, and then burn it multiple times. The system can be formed. On the infilled enamel dial that is almost finished, you can see the effect similar to the smudge in ink painting.
Micro-painted enamel
As the most difficult enamel technique, most of the micro-painted enamels are reduced original famous paintings to miniature versions that match the dial proportions. The dial or case is used as ‘cloth’ and enamel is used as ‘paint’ for creation. This requires that the enamel master must not only have the top level of enamel firing technology, but also have a strong aesthetic foundation first-and because of the genre category of watch creation, this requires that every master of micro-painting enamel can master it at the same time There are many painting techniques in East and West, and the requirements are too high.
[Concise firing process]
First, the large-scale painting will be reduced to complete the harmonious and unified disk design with the watch. The whole is printed into a pattern many times larger than the standard watch, which is convenient for the master of enamel painting to copy and grasp the proportion. In order to make the case back case resistant to high temperature during the firing process, the bottom case should be covered with a layer of anti-deformation enamel glaze, and then the surface should be coated with several layers of white enamel glaze, and then the drawing is started. The enamel master used a sable single brush to paint several layers of colored enamel with delicate strokes to draw a delicate pattern. The last step is to apply several layers of colorless transparent glaze to enhance the three-dimensional impression of the pattern.